Gesamtkunstwerk

Festspielhaus at Bayreuth in 1882

This summer I’m embarking on travel with, I admit, an obsessive pursuit of German opera. I have the chance to visit, if briefly, some of the big summer festivals. Munich, Berlin, and the festival of festivals, Bayreuth.

Wagner’s theater, which is only used for his operas, isn’t even called an opera house. It’s a festival house (Festspielhaus). I’ve passed through sleepy Bayreuth in the off season, but this year I’m finally able to go and hear for mysel...