Meet The Transgender "Sistergirls" Of The Tiwi Islands

It's approaching midday and we're trundling along a bumpy, unsealed red dirt track on Bathurst Island, 100 kilometres north of Darwin, with the temperature quickly soaring into the mid-30s.

Inside a twin cab that's seen better days, with air conditioning ducts that pump more fine red dust into the car than cold air, there is a cacophony of laughing, teasing and trading of community gossip. Five sistergirls, transgender Aboriginal people traditionally known in the Tiwi Islands as ‘yimpininni’, have offered to spend the day with BuzzFeed News and give us a tour of their island home.

While transgender people are found across all Indigenous communities, the Tiwi Islands has arguably the largest sistergirl population in the country and certainly the most famous one.

There are roughly 2500 people living in the Tiwi Islands, comprised of Bathurst and Melville Islands, and the sistergirls girls say there are currently around 80 yimpininni.

Pandanus trees whisk by with their long, crooked leaves reaching toward earth at sharp right angles. The red earth gives way to soft powdery sand, and the smell of the ocean engulfs the car followed shortly by the stickiness of salt water blowing in from the Arafura Sea. Sweet relief from the staggering heat.

We stop at the foot of a dune and suddenly the frenzied laughter comes to an abrupt end as all the sistergirls begin loudly yelling out in Tiwi language. They tell me they're letting the spirits of their ancestors know that we are coming onto country to ensure that no harm comes to the group or to me, a stranger. It's a moment that perfectly highlights the profound connection to country and culture that the people of Tiwi have.

After calling out we walk onwards and are confronted with a stunning, vast swathe of empty beach with shimmering turquoise water lapping at our feet. The sistergirls agree it's the perfect backdrop for a photo shoot and happily oblige for the camera, posing and pouting, legs akimbo, fierce face on. Their only concern is the saltwater crocodiles that lurk in the waters around the Island.

Sistergirl Laura Orsto (Allan Clarke / BuzzFeed)

Between poses Laura Orsto, 31, says she told her parents that she was a sistergirl in primary school. "Age 10 I knew I was a Sistergirl. It was really, really, very hard for me to come out because my parents are really strict and didn’t want me to be out there as a sistergirl. They wanted me to be saved," she says.

"I told my parents, 'for you to accept me I have to go away', and I lived in Darwin with my aunty who accepted me. She told me, 'be safe here with me, I don’t want you to be out yet. I accept you to be who you are, but I don't want people to hurt you.' I said I understand aunty but I want to be out there, I don’t want to be behind closed doors anymore."

As a 16-year-old, Orsto began living her life as a female and had to "fight and fight and battle hard to be accepted". In remote Indigenous communities being transgender often means defying rigidly observed cultural practices defined by male and female gender roles. In many cases it also means having to defy strictly held religious beliefs common in many Indigenous communities.

It was an older yimpininni who gave Orsto courage and strength as she came to terms with living life as a woman. "There were plenty of Sistergirls back then; I used to go out with them and talk about things, like how to act like girls you know and be ladylike. One lady, I use to call her mum, she was like a mother to me, and she told me 'you just have to be who you want to be baby just like me, I’m always here for you, you got me here'."

The woman who gave so much strength to the sistergirl community would tragically go on to kill herself.

"We use to talk on the beach all the time about life, and she used to say this to me, 'no matter what people say to you or what they call you, never ever go and commit suicide it’s just not right.' It turned out that she would do that to herself. And what’s really sad, when I lost her I said to myself why did she have to do that? Because I remember she told me not to do that silly thing."

Orsto says the death took a deep emotional toll and she contemplated suicide herself, but ultimately triumphed over her personal demons. Today Orsto is a much-loved and respected member of the community. "I love to talk to everyone, and everyone has been nice to me and they don’t put me down, they put me up the top. Everyone says, 'wow you have a nice personality, Miss Laura'," Orsto said.