Semiliterate restaurant Chinese

Language Log 2025-10-15

Charles Belov saw this sign on Clement Street (aka New Chinatown) in San Francisco:

Charles noticed that there were some irregularities and inconsistencies in the character usage.  There are so many errors that I won't point out each of them one at a time. They waver between traditional and simplified to forms that are partially traditional and partially simplified (mostly traditional — you can compare the ones on the sign with the ones I've typed below; every line has at least one error).

Here's a sort of normalized version:

jīntiān gè kuǎn dà tèjià 今天各款大特價 "today's very special prices for each item"

————————————– ————————————–

yánjú huángmáo guìfēi jī 鹽焗*黃毛貴妃雞 "salt-baked free range imperial consort chicken"

cōngyóu huángmáo guìfēi jī 蔥油黃毛貴妃雞 "scallion oil free range imperial consort chicken"

chǐyóu huángmáo guìfēi jī 豉油黃毛貴妃雞 "soy sauce free range imperial consort chicken"

yùtou zhēng yā 芋頭蒸鴨 "steamed duck with taro"

lǔshuǐ yā 鹵水鸭 "braised duck"

lǔshuǐ zhūshǒu 鹵水豬手 "braised pork knuckle"

mìzhī chāshāo 蜜汁叉燒 honey-glazed barbecued pork

měi zhī 每隻 "each"

bàn zhī 半隻 "half"

yī hé 一盒 "container / box"

The person who wrote this sign was bold and audacious.  Even though he didn't know how to write many of the characters correctly, he just forged ahead and wrote some of them imperfectly.  His intention was to get his ideas across, even his writing wasn't perfect.  I admire his spirit.

*A special note on 焗

When I first saw this character, I did not recognize it, but somehow instinctively made some sort of sense out of it: "fire" > "cook" + "cramped; confined".

Most of the cognates and references for this glyph are in Cantonese, and it first appears (as ) in an Old Cantonese dictionary.

(Wiktionary)

Not in the Kangxi dictionary, hence after 1716.

Selected readings

[Thanks to Jing Hu]